One Night Out, a Swim in the Morning and Some Cows
Ajay and I went out for the first time together since arrival - went to see a Hindi film (no subtitles and it was even a bit fast-paced for Ajay to catch the dialogue) at the Chetak Cinema. Quite a scene for Saturday night. One boxy building with no apparent entrance, swarmed by a crowd of mostly men in their 20s. We arrived later than the suggested one hour before show-time (it was 9pm and we just barely got the kids in bed in time to go), and discovered that it was sold-out but scalpers had tickets for 60 rupees (the box seats normally go for 35 rs). It took 20 minutes or so for our self-appointed middleman to get the tickets for us - but we even had assigned seats in the second balcony. Suddenly the sheet metal in front of the building rolled up exposing the theater entrance and a cheer went up as well as a surge forward. Dimly lit marble staircases paved our way upstairs and we found ourselves in a BIG theater - no multiplex here, just one show for everyone, and the seats even reclined a bit. Easy to fall over the balcony.
The show was Lage Raho Munna Bhai (I think) and was about a Mumbai laundry Mafioso who fell in love with a radio talk show host and had to pass himself off as an expert on Gandhi. Great cinematography and some brilliant Broadway/vaudeville-like moments. Half-way through (at 11:15 there was an intermission) we decided it was time to head home - for both the kids' sake and our own sleep. We went downstairs (through passageways of smokers - always a surprise after smoke-free California) and found the door shut again. Asking someone to open it for us, we learned that it was padlocked shut. He said he'd open it in three minutes. A bit freaky. - there were clearly no other exits, the place was poorly lit and we were locked inside (something like WalMart employees on the night shift). Unbelievable. 15 minutes later (after the crowds had gone back in for the 2nd half) he came back, unlocked the door and let 5 of us out (then rolled it back down and padlocked it again.)
Sunday morning: Ajay is determined to go to the lake for swimming. I've been hemming and hawing a bit because a) I wasn't sure of the water quality - although many had assured me that it was the best around because Fateh Sagar - the lake nearest us, was protected from sewage as it served as the municipal water supply. and b) I didn't think i had anything swimmable to wear over my bathing suit (which is not sufficient for public bathing except in hotel pools and Goa). Finally found a purple sundress (which I'm sure you would all recognize!) that did work just fine. Took the family and Ramreet in a "ric" (local for autorickshaw) around the back side of the lake where only a herd of goats was passing by and found a suitably shallow entrance for the kids.
The water was perfect! Not too unlike upstate New York. Well, if you don't count the submerged thorn bushes (!) that needed to be navigated around. There has been a drought here for the past 6-7 years and only now is the lake back up to its normal levels. The kids kept their Crocs on and Ajay and I suffered minor moments of extreme terror. In certain parts, their might be some crocodiles - but not where we were. After playing a bit with Tara in my arms, I took my leave for the middle of the lake, where I floated, dove and just enjoyed a good 40 minutes of clean, quiet solitude! The dress was even surprisingly comfortable to swim in. We'll be sure to go more often. The weather has cleared up and Violet and I displayed a bit of sunburn afterwards...
After napping, we prepared for an outing pre-arranged with the farmer who delivers our morning milk daily. We were headed out to meet the cows who feed (Tara) us. Another rickshaw ride, this time with Manju Didi (our nanny) accompanying us - out the east side of town. We soon found ourselves out of the city and passing fields of corn and oxen heading home for the night. Our farmer (whose name Ajay surely knows, but forgive me - I missed in all of this) has 4 cows that he milks, providing 2-6kilos each depending on their age. We arrived in time for the third and fourth milking. Violet and Satya were thrilled to see this but even more excited about petting the calves. The farmer brings the calf out to nurse briefly - to get the milk flowing (known as "let-down" among maternal lactation specialists like me), then ties it up while he milks the cow and lets it on again after his pail is full - and they go at with relish! There is enough for both the calves and the dairy business.
We went upstairs to an outdoor space and visited with his family after putting the milk in a large steel pot in his fridge. Very friendly and outgoing - happy to share his practices with us. Large cups of raw milk were brought out for us. They asked if we preferred it "garam" hot (boiled) or fresh and we chose raw considering that we had seen just how he cleaned the cow and handled the milk. Ahh - yum. His mother arrived with a load of long thick sticks balanced on her head perfectly as she greeted us with both hands -"Namaste" Lots of children around and a beautiful sunset over his fields. We had brought some sweet limes (mosamis) for them, as well as some heritage cucumber seed, and they loaded us down with huge chunks of kadoo - pumpkin, and fresh dhanya - cilantro, which he wholesales. On the trip back to town the driver paused to point out "jogilu?" - fireflies! And when we were home again - i realized that there had been no mosquitos there - not one - even though they are bugging me even now as I sit in the internet cafe.
We are really struck by the freedom of life here - infants riding on motorcycles, no car seats - no laws resticting everything one does. No it's not "safe" - but it seems that people are more careful! The pace of traffic is slower (however chaotic, they do drive MUCH slower than in the US, even if it is only because of the condition of the roads...) People have more say about their own destiny it seems and for that they seem much more ALIVE, vibrant and have a sense of humor, respect for others and are not governed by fear.
by Sara
The show was Lage Raho Munna Bhai (I think) and was about a Mumbai laundry Mafioso who fell in love with a radio talk show host and had to pass himself off as an expert on Gandhi. Great cinematography and some brilliant Broadway/vaudeville-like moments. Half-way through (at 11:15 there was an intermission) we decided it was time to head home - for both the kids' sake and our own sleep. We went downstairs (through passageways of smokers - always a surprise after smoke-free California) and found the door shut again. Asking someone to open it for us, we learned that it was padlocked shut. He said he'd open it in three minutes. A bit freaky. - there were clearly no other exits, the place was poorly lit and we were locked inside (something like WalMart employees on the night shift). Unbelievable. 15 minutes later (after the crowds had gone back in for the 2nd half) he came back, unlocked the door and let 5 of us out (then rolled it back down and padlocked it again.)
Sunday morning: Ajay is determined to go to the lake for swimming. I've been hemming and hawing a bit because a) I wasn't sure of the water quality - although many had assured me that it was the best around because Fateh Sagar - the lake nearest us, was protected from sewage as it served as the municipal water supply. and b) I didn't think i had anything swimmable to wear over my bathing suit (which is not sufficient for public bathing except in hotel pools and Goa). Finally found a purple sundress (which I'm sure you would all recognize!) that did work just fine. Took the family and Ramreet in a "ric" (local for autorickshaw) around the back side of the lake where only a herd of goats was passing by and found a suitably shallow entrance for the kids.
The water was perfect! Not too unlike upstate New York. Well, if you don't count the submerged thorn bushes (!) that needed to be navigated around. There has been a drought here for the past 6-7 years and only now is the lake back up to its normal levels. The kids kept their Crocs on and Ajay and I suffered minor moments of extreme terror. In certain parts, their might be some crocodiles - but not where we were. After playing a bit with Tara in my arms, I took my leave for the middle of the lake, where I floated, dove and just enjoyed a good 40 minutes of clean, quiet solitude! The dress was even surprisingly comfortable to swim in. We'll be sure to go more often. The weather has cleared up and Violet and I displayed a bit of sunburn afterwards...
After napping, we prepared for an outing pre-arranged with the farmer who delivers our morning milk daily. We were headed out to meet the cows who feed (Tara) us. Another rickshaw ride, this time with Manju Didi (our nanny) accompanying us - out the east side of town. We soon found ourselves out of the city and passing fields of corn and oxen heading home for the night. Our farmer (whose name Ajay surely knows, but forgive me - I missed in all of this) has 4 cows that he milks, providing 2-6kilos each depending on their age. We arrived in time for the third and fourth milking. Violet and Satya were thrilled to see this but even more excited about petting the calves. The farmer brings the calf out to nurse briefly - to get the milk flowing (known as "let-down" among maternal lactation specialists like me), then ties it up while he milks the cow and lets it on again after his pail is full - and they go at with relish! There is enough for both the calves and the dairy business.
We went upstairs to an outdoor space and visited with his family after putting the milk in a large steel pot in his fridge. Very friendly and outgoing - happy to share his practices with us. Large cups of raw milk were brought out for us. They asked if we preferred it "garam" hot (boiled) or fresh and we chose raw considering that we had seen just how he cleaned the cow and handled the milk. Ahh - yum. His mother arrived with a load of long thick sticks balanced on her head perfectly as she greeted us with both hands -"Namaste" Lots of children around and a beautiful sunset over his fields. We had brought some sweet limes (mosamis) for them, as well as some heritage cucumber seed, and they loaded us down with huge chunks of kadoo - pumpkin, and fresh dhanya - cilantro, which he wholesales. On the trip back to town the driver paused to point out "jogilu?" - fireflies! And when we were home again - i realized that there had been no mosquitos there - not one - even though they are bugging me even now as I sit in the internet cafe.
We are really struck by the freedom of life here - infants riding on motorcycles, no car seats - no laws resticting everything one does. No it's not "safe" - but it seems that people are more careful! The pace of traffic is slower (however chaotic, they do drive MUCH slower than in the US, even if it is only because of the condition of the roads...) People have more say about their own destiny it seems and for that they seem much more ALIVE, vibrant and have a sense of humor, respect for others and are not governed by fear.
by Sara
posted by Sara and Ajay at 10:25 PM
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